Frequenty Asked Warranty Questions

The Drippé Homes Warranty is serviced and operated by our very own in-house team for your convenience. Warranties may be purchased by a builder from a third-party independent company, however in our pursuit of excellence, we want to be the ones to make it right. We do not expose our clients to national home warranty companies and their processes.

Our 1-year warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship in the construction of your home. This includes items such as roof leaks, plumbing leaks, heating and cooling system failures, and other issues related to the construction of the home.

To report a warranty issue, please visit this link here. This will open a request form that can be filled out and submitted. Once submitted someone from our team will contact you.

Our goal is to resolve warranty issues as quickly as possible. The length of time it takes to resolve a warranty issue will depend on the nature and complexity of the problem, but we will do our best to resolve it within a reasonable time frame.

Yes, our warranty covers the cost of repairing any defects in materials and workmanship that arise during the 1-year warranty period.

Yes, you can make changes to your home during the warranty period, but any changes you make may void your warranty coverage. If you are planning to make changes, please contact us to discuss how they may affect your warranty.

The warranty for appliances and other products installed in your home will depend on the manufacturer's warranty. We will provide the manufacturer's warranty information to you at the time of installation, and we can assist you in filing a warranty claim if necessary.

No, our warranty does not cover damages caused by normal wear and tear. This includes items such as worn carpets, scratched floors, and other similar issues.

The easiest way to unclog your toilet is with a plunger, but if you don’t have one on hand, fill the toilet with dish soap or laundry detergent, add a pot of boiling water and then wait a few minutes before flushing. The hot water should break through the clog as the soap washes everything through the siphon and out of the drain.

Toilets are not caulked to the floor entirely so if a leak does happen to develop it will present evidence. It will cause far less damage if a leak is identified as soon as it starts. The wax ring between the throne and the flange is what creates the seal. If that fails or becomes damaged it is imperative to address the situation as quickly as possible to avoid additional damages.

A running toilet is usually caused by a flapper, the rubber or plastic valve on the bottom of your tank, that fails to seal. Open the toilet tank and adjust the float arm to see if the water stops an inch below the overflow pipe. If the water doesn’t continue to fill, the flapper needs to be replaced. Here is a good way to test if your toilet is leaking: Open the toilet tank and put a few drops of food coloring into the water to check if your toilet is leaking. Return after 15 minutes to see if the color inside the toilet bowl has changed. If the color has changed, your toilet has a leak, but if the water’s still clear, you do not have a leak.

The main causes of high water bills are running toilets, and irrigation systems. Leaking toilets which can waste up to 200 gallons per day, and leaky faucets, which can drip up to 20 gallons per day need to be checked. Check for leaks by inspecting faucets, as well as removing your toilet bowl’s tank and listening for any sounds, like hissing. If you don’t find leaks in either of those locations, you’ll need to check your water line and hose bibs.

The irrigation system can also develop leaks that would need to be identified. Water trickling steadily out of an irrigation head long after the irrigation system has turned off could indicate a leaking- or weeping- valve below ground. The diaphragm seal may have worn out and water is seeping freely through 24/7. It could also mean the valve is clogged, preventing it from fully closing. If it hasn't been raining, but your lawn is soaking wet and the ground is saturated, you could have a leak. Water-soaked driveway or walkway: If your driveway or walkways are wet while the system is not running, even in dry weather, the excess water could indicate a sprinkler system leak.

Your toilet may smell when you flush because of a broken airtight seal. Sewer gas is blocked from entering homes by the drain venting system. A U–shape in the pipe holds a designated amount of water after each flush. The water acts as an airtight seal to block sewage gasses. If too much negative pressure occurs, however, the water level can lower and break the seal, causing a smell after you flush.

Remove buildup on faucet aerators by taking off the aerator. Soak it in vinegar and then rinse and scrub it under running water before reattaching it to the faucet.

Leaky faucets are usually caused by worn rubber washers, which give out over time due to valve seat friction. Replace the washers to fix your leak.

Failure of the diverter to close, which blocks the faucet’s water when the shower is on, can cause the faucet to run water when using your shower. Diverter problems are usually due to calcium or mineral deposits.

Low pH and acid water, both of which are caused by high amounts of carbon dioxide in the water supply, can cause rusty, blue or green stains in the bathtub.

A faulty gasket or poor connection typically causes a leaking shower head hose attachment. Remove the shower head and soak it for half an hour in white vinegar. Replace the rubber washers and reconnect the shower head to test for any remaining leaks.

Maintenance on your bathroom’s plumbing is necessary whenever a faucet leak persists or drain blockage occurs. A clogged toilet, or toilet that continues to run, as well as low water pressure also mandate service, especially when do-it-yourself (DIY) home repairs fail to fix the problem.

Turn off the disposal, unplug the unit, insert an appropriately sized hex or Allen wrench into the hole of the disposal motor. Rotate the wrench back and forth to dislodge the obstruction and fix your jammed garbage disposal. You may have to stick your hand down there and pull out the offending objects. With my kids I have pulled out Legos, coins, wash clothes, silverware etc. There is also a GFCI outlet that may become tripped if the disposal becomes jammed. You would have to firmly press the “Reset” button until the outlet clicks and the light turns on. 

Yes, Drano® and similar brands make sink–cleaning products that are safe for all sinks, including those with garbage disposals. If in doubt, check the drain cleaner’s label before using it.

Remove odor from your garbage disposal by using items like lemons, ice cubes, baking soda, vinegar, and drain cleaner.

Clear a clogged drain without chemicals by using baking soda and vinegar. Pour half a box of baking soda and half a cup of vinegar down the drain, then plug the faucet with a plunger for 30 seconds to prevent the mixture from bubbling upward. Let the mixture sit for 30 minutes. Boil a kettle of water and then pour it down the drain to clear it.

Prevent clogged drains in your home by stopping hairs, oils, greases, coffee grinds, pasta or hard produce parts, such as broccoli stalks, carrots or apple cores, from going down the drain. A drain stopper or filter can help stop materials, like coffee grinds, pasta and produce from entering your drain.

If your kitchen drain is taking longer to empty, then a clog is forming, perhaps deep in the drain. A plunger may be able to pull out the obstruction. You could also use a drain cleaner or baking soda and vinegar solution, along with boiling water to loosen and break up the clog.

Loose drain pipes under a kitchen sink tend to come unfastened because of a loosened collar, which holds the pipes.

Clean your dishwasher by filling the detergent container with white vinegar and running the machine on a long, hot cycle. Do not leave any dishes in the washer for this cleaning cycle.

If your dishwasher isn’t draining, it’s likely due to a leaky inlet valve or mineral deposits in the pipes. Empty the dishwasher and start a new cycle on empty. Cancel the cycle after a few seconds and open the door. If the water is gone, the dishwasher is fine. If not, the inlet valve should be replaced.

There are several potential reasons why your dishes may still be wet after a cycle:

1. The dishwasher may not be properly loaded, causing dishes to block the spray arm and preventing water from reaching all of the dishes.
2. The dishwasher may not be leveling properly, causing water to pool in one area of the dishwasher and not reach certain dishes.
3. The dishwasher may not be filling with enough water, causing a poor wash performance.
4. The dishwasher's spray arms may be clogged with food debris, preventing water from reaching all of the dishes.
5. The dishwasher's heating element may not be working properly, causing dishes to not dry properly.
6. The dishwasher detergent dispenser may not be working properly, not releasing enough detergent to properly clean the dishes.

It's important to keep an eye on your sump pump and make sure it is functioning properly. Here are a few tips to help you determine how often to service your sump pit:

1. Check your sump pump regularly: It's a good idea to test your sump pump regularly to ensure that it is working properly. You can do this by pouring a bucket of water into the sump pit and watching to see if the pump kicks on and removes the water.
2. Check for debris: Occasionally, debris can accumulate in the sump pit and clog the pump. You should check the pit for debris and remove any that you find.
3. Check for leaks: Check the sump pit and pump for any leaks or signs of damage. If you notice any leaks or damage, it's important to have them repaired as soon as possible.
4. Consider professional servicing: If you're unsure about the condition of your sump pit or pump, or if you haven't had them serviced in a while, you may want to consider having a professional inspect and service them.

In general, it's a good idea to check your sump pit and pump at least once every three months, and to have them serviced by a professional every year, depending on usage and the manufacturer's recommendations.

Water damage from leaks can be costly and damaging to your home, so it's important to take steps to prevent them. Here are some tips to help prevent water damage from leaks:

1. Regularly inspect your home: Check your home regularly for signs of leaks or water damage, such as water stains on ceilings or walls, mold growth, or musty odors.
2. Maintain your plumbing system: Have a plumber inspect and maintain your plumbing system regularly to catch any potential issues before they become major problems.
3. Replace old or damaged plumbing: If you have old or damaged pipes, consider replacing them with newer, more durable materials like copper or PEX.
4. Install a water leak detection system: Consider installing a water leak detection system, which can alert you to leaks before they become major problems.
5. Install shut-off valves: Install shut-off valves on all water-using appliances, such as washing machines and dishwashers, to prevent leaks from becoming major water damage incidents.
6. Keep gutters and downspouts clean: Make sure your gutters and downspouts are clear of debris to prevent water from backing up and causing damage to your roof and walls.
7. Monitor your water bill: Keep an eye on your water bill for any sudden increases, which can indicate a leak.

The amount of cooling an AC system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity uses the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (S.E.E.R.) rating system, defined by the Air Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute in its 2008 standard AHRI 210/240. The higher a cooling unit’s S.E.E.R. rating, the more energy-efficient that piece of equipment. In the USA, the SEER is the ratio of cooling in a British Thermal Unit (BTU) to the energy consumed in watt-hours. S.E.E.R. ratings can range from 13 to 17.

First, and most importantly, you should clean and replace your HVAC filters frequently. Allowing your system to breathe more freely requires less work on the part of the blower motors. Windows that are exposed to excessive sunlight benefit from shades, drapes or tints and cause the system to work less. A system heats or cools more evenly when the blower is “on” and keeps the air moving constantly throughout the home, and constantly filtered.

Not necessarily. A larger system with higher capacity costs more energy to operate, and may have to work harder. A system with too much available capacity will run in short cycles, turning the system off and on repeatedly, causing it to be less efficient. In addition, air conditioners only remove humidity while it is running – shorter run cycles don’t remove humidity from the air as well as it should.

Unfortunately, there is no exact answer. Air conditioners are sized to remove heat from a home as quickly as it enters, based on a 110° day. On a 110° day, a system should be able to keep up with incoming heat, but not make gains and turn itself off. The further below 110°, the more the system will cycle on and off.

Air conditioners use a lot of energy and do not produce a lot of cooling when they are first starting up. A system that is undersized is less expensive to run, but of course delivers less comfort for the home’s inhabitants. Although it runs non-stop, it will probably use less energy than a larger system that tends to cycle on and off. Usually, a unit that is either running or off costs less to operate than a unit that cycles on and off.

Your air conditioner system’s air temperature depends entirely on the temperature of the air entering the system. Generally speaking, air temperature produced by an AC unit should be 18° to 20° lower than the air that enters the system. For example, if air entering the system is 80°, air coming out should be around 60° to 62°. That is accurate on a system that’s been running a minimum of 15 minutes on a warm, dry day with an air temperature around 80°. On a day with milder temperatures, with the indoor temperature in the low 70’s, or when humidity is much higher, air exiting the unit may only be 15° to 17° cooler than what is entering.

In the summertime, average popular temperature settings hover around 78° to 80°; in colder months, 70° to 72° seems to be the most comfortable setting in our area. If you have a programmable thermostat, you can save energy by raising and lowering the temperature depending on whether your home is occupied, but you shouldn’t change the temperature by more than 5° when you come and go; doing so will make the HVAC equipment work harder to set the temperature back to normal later.

There are a wide variety of electronic programmable thermostats available today, which are much more efficient and accurate than old-style thermostats that use mercury switches. Using a programmable thermostat, you can regulate your home’s temperature by time of day, depending on whether it’s occupied or not. When everything is automatic, you never have to remember to change the setting. Also, many newer thermostats connect to your home’s WiFi, allowing you to manage your home’s temperature remotely with an app on your smartphone or one of the smart devices gaining popularity (like Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant or Apple Home). Programmable “smart” thermostats are definitely the way to go these days. Installation of a “smart” thermostat will unfortunately end the warranty coverage for your HVAC system. We recommend waiting until the end of the warranty period before attempting to install one of these devices.

We recommend you replace your home’s disposable filters at least once monthly for the first year of homeownership. After that it entirely depends on how many pets, people, and pollutants your home has within it. *NOTE Burning of candles will put soot into the air and cause the filter to turn black.

A short checklist of tasks every homeowner should do on their AC system:

• Change filters regularly
• Clear debris, clutter, weeds, or other landscaping from your outdoor unit, it may restrict airflow
• Keep your family pets away from an outdoor unit; urine can cause extensive, expensive damage
• Use extra caution using a string weed eater around your outdoor unit to avoid damaging wiring or cooling fins.

We recommend a maintenance plan that includes twice-yearly checks on the system, one in the fall and another in the spring. That allows a service technician to catch any potential issues before they happen, saving you higher repair costs. Maintenance programs are designed to keep your AC and heating systems running at peak efficiency all year long.

Check to ensure the air handler or furnace is plugged in and receiving electricity – check that the breakers and disconnects (light switch located in the utility room) are turned on and the thermostat is set correctly. If you are calling for AC service during the cooling season, we ask that you turn off your system at least 3 hours prior to our visit. If your coil is iced up, work cannot be done on a system until it thaws.

This is definitely NOT something we recommend. Closing registers decreases airflow and efficiency; by closing registers and doors, you’re disrupting airflow and you’ll cause your system to work harder to distribute air to other areas of the home. That causes the system to work harder, cycling more and running with less efficiency.

During the heating season, cool outdoor air enters your home and tends to dry out as it warms up. That increases static electricity and can cause dry sinus problems. Adding a humidifier adds moisture back into the air, reducing sinus issues. Humidifiers generally have little effect in the cooling season, as humidity hovers around a low 40 percent.

When your heat pump produces warm air, the air blowing out of your vents will be somewhere in the 85 to 92°F range. However, this temperature pales in comparison with the air emanating from a gas furnace, which is typically between 130 to 140°F. If you are new to a heat pump system, keep in mind that the air coming from your vents will not feel as warm as the air stemming from a gas furnace, but heat pumps will warm your home to the desired temperature — if you give it time.

During cold weather months, frost can accumulate on the outdoor coil, causing the heat pump to run a defrost cycle for one to ten minutes. Your system will return to heating mode once the ice is gone.

The clicking noise that you are hearing from your hood vent when it is windy is likely caused by the vent flaps moving in response to the wind. The flaps are designed to open and close to regulate the amount of air flowing through the vent, and the clicking noise is likely the sound of the flaps moving. This is normal and nothing to be concerned about.

First, unplug the appliance you were using and any other appliances plugged into the same circuit as the GFCI. To reset a GFCI outlet, look carefully at the two little buttons on the front of the outlet. Press the one that says RESET firmly until the button clicks into place and the LED indicator light comes on.

An AFCI is a product that is designed to detect a wide range of arcing electrical faults to help reduce the electrical system from being an ignition source of a fire. Conventional overcurrent protective devices do not detect low level hazardous arcing currents that have the potential to initiate electrical fires. It is well known that electrical fires do exist and take many lives and damage or destroy significant amounts of property. Electrical fires can be a silent killer occurring in areas of the home that are hidden from view and early detection. The objective is to protect the circuit in a manner that will reduce its chances of being a source of an electrical fire.

There is a major difference between the functioning of an AFCI as compared to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). The function of the GFCI is to protect people from the deadly effects of electric shock that could occur if parts of an electrical appliance or tool become energized due to a ground fault. The function of the AFCI is to protect the branch circuit wiring from dangerous arcing faults that could initiate an electrical fire. AFCI and GFCI technologies can co-exist with each other and are a great complement for the most complete protection that can be provided on a circuit.

Non-LED bulbs can flicker because they have a loose connection somewhere. Either from the socket, in the panel, or in the wiring. LED bulbs/lights flickering is mostly due to the bulbs themselves. I would recommend replacing them.

When a breaker trips (shuts off), it’s usually because too many things were running on one circuit at the same time and it got overloaded. So if you’re running one or more high-amperage appliances like hair dryers, toasters or space heaters, and the breaker trips, just shut off the devices and reset the breaker. Look for a partially tripped breaker that’s about halfway between the ‘off’ and ‘on’ positions. Move the switch all the way to its ‘off’ position, then back to ‘on’. You might hear a few beeps from smoke detectors and appliances when you turn the power back on, but that’s normal. You’re good to go!

Many homeowners forget that smoke detectors require cleaning just as much as any other household component. If your alarm has accumulated a lot of dust, its sensors could become overly sensitive. Be sure to clean your alarm often to avoid excessive build-up. This can be easily accomplished with a can of compressed air or a vacuum cleaner and wand attachment. Also smoke detectors do have an expiration date. The device itself should be replaced per the manufacturer recommendations (typically 5-8 years).

Windows are not necessarily designed to be completely airtight. In fact, it is generally recommended to have some level of ventilation in a building to ensure that fresh air can circulate and to prevent mold and other moisture-related issues. At best windows have an insulation value of R-4.

Sourced from WeatherBarr

My windows are working so hard they are sweating!

While this may be an entertaining punch line of a cartoon, sweating windows are no laughing matter. In fact, the windows themselves do not sweat.

Condensation is the result of environmental conditions that allows the moisture in the air to collect on the glass or window frame in a home. This effect is similar to the presence of dewy grass on summer mornings or the fogging of a mirror after a hot shower. When conditions are ripe, condensation can appear on either the inside or the outside. So what are those conditions?

The dew point is the temperature at which the air is fully saturated with moisture, or humidity. When a surface is cooler than the dew point, moisture is drawn out of the humid air and “condenses” on the cool surface. A good example of this effect is a glass of cold ice tea on a hot, humid day. In a matter of minutes, the cold glass will begin to draw moisture out of the humid air and beads of moisture will appear on the cold glass.

In short, large temperature differences from the air to the glass or window frame coupled with high relative humidity creates condensation or “sweating windows”.

Condensation can be very problematic and damaging, potentially resulting in:

• Damp feeling inside the home
• Discoloration of interior surfaces
• Mold or Mildew on surfaces
• Warped wooden surfaces
• Peeling or blistering interior or exterior paint
• Sweating Pipes
• Damage to walls or framing members

In fact, some newer homes can actually be more susceptible to condensation. Newer homes are constructed with more weather tight materials than older homes. Vapor barriers and modern construction methods are designed to reduce air leakage. At the same time, these can act to seal in moisture. Unless provisions are made to allow the moisture to escape, moisture buildup can result.

The most effective way to alleviate condensation concerns is to control the relative humidity inside your home. Drier air is less likely to condense. The following tips will help with

humidity:

Use exhaust fans in rooms where water is being used heavily: bathrooms, kitchens, even laundry rooms. If exhaust fans are not available, crack windows If you use a humidifier, be sure it is set to the correct outside temperature. An improperly vented clothes dryer will introduce significant moisture. Be sure the dryer is venting properly and completely.

Be sure crawl spaces, attics, or basements are properly ventilated.

Install energy efficient windows.

No window can “prevent” condensation from occurring. However, the more energy efficient windows will reduce the probability of condensation forming. Metal frame windows are notorious for condensation because metals transfer energy very rapidly, moving the outside temperature to the inside of your home and creating a “cold” spot for moisture to collect.

Vinyl framed windows will maintain warmer inside temperatures and decrease the likelihood of “cold” spots ripe for condensation. In addition, glass packages can have a significant impact on condensation. Advanced coatings and spacer systems will maintain warmer temperatures inside the home.

Even the highest performing window will not eliminate condensation. Large temperature differences with humid conditions can cause condensation to occur on even the best window on the market.

Please consult our Full Energy Results page to find WeatherBarr products with low U-Values and high Condensation Resistance Factor (CF) that can help control your condensation problems.

On an exterior door there are typically contrasting temperatures on either side of the door. As those temperatures move further apart and closer together there will be some expansion and contraction that takes place. That means that the bolts holding the exterior and interior portions of the handle together will be tight and loose at different points of the day. Through normal use of the door knob, the bolts will ultimately become loose over time. This is easily resolved by periodically tightening the bolts with a screwdriver. Attempting to overtighten the bolts or use of thread locking products will damage the door knob and impede its functionality.

As discussed (here) shrinkage in wood construction is something that happens. Small adjustments can be made to the hinges and latch plates to help alleviate this issue.

Doorways to the exterior of your home have a sill and threshold that is constructed of multiple components. One of the components is an adjustable insert. This insert typically will have (4) points of adjustment that are covered by round plastic dust caps. Simply remove the cap and turn the adjustment screw to position the insert so that it makes contact with the bottom of the door.

The exact position needed may slightly different depending on the temperature and relative humidity conditions. Interior doorways should have a gap under them to allow air flow. When the HVAC system is running air is being exchanged all throughout the home. Gaps at the bottom of doors help the HVAC system access all parts of the home.

R-value is a measure of a material's thermal resistance, or its ability to resist heat flow. In the case of windows, the R-value refers to the insulation properties of the window frame and glazing (glass). The higher the R-value, the better the window is at preventing heat loss or heat gain, and the more energy efficient it is.

The R-value of a window can range from R-1 to R-5, with higher values indicating better insulation. Some high-performance windows can have R-values up to R-7. The exact R-value of a window depends on several factors, including the type of frame and glazing, the number of panes of glass, and the type of gas fill between the panes (if any).

When selecting windows for a home, it is important to consider the R-value, as well as other factors such as the window's U-value (a measure of heat loss), the Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC), and the visible transmittance (VT). These factors will determine how well the windows will perform in terms of energy efficiency and comfort.

Doors are made from wood. As discussed (here) shrinkage in wood is something that happens. As the door shrinks the handle will become loose. The good news is that a couple of twists with a screwdriver will remedy the situation. It is worth noting that if the door swells back up when humidity changes that you may have to loosen those screws a bit as well. If the handle is too tight it will impact the mechanism's ability to operate. After about 10 years the wood will be far less reactive to humidity and these adjustments will not be necessary as often.

As a home shifts and settles through the various seasons of the year different components of the home will ultimately find the path of least resistance. At times this will result in doors that find a balance located in either the fully open or fully closed position. With a small adjustment to a hinge pin this can be simply resolved.

The latching system used to secure a double door closet door is a ball catch. As the spring loaded ball that is installed in the top of the door comes into contact with the catch plate it should roll into place. If the ball is not lined up with the catch plate the door will fail to close. The spring loaded ball has an adjustable height. By turning the sleeve the ball sits in, clockwise (righty-tighty) the ball and sleeve will sink further into the door. By turning the sleeve the ball sits in counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey) the sleeve and the ball will rise up out of the door.

If any of the components of the doors, casing, or framing has experienced any shrinkage or settling then additional adjustments may be required. The hinges can be adjusted to impact the swing of the doors. The catch plate can be adjusted to occupy the new resting place of the ball when the door is in the closed position. Or you can wait for the season to change and the humidity change involved could very well make things operate as intended.

The soil composition in northeastern Kansas can vary depending on location and factors such as past land use and geologic history. However, in general, the soils in this region are primarily composed of silt, clay, and loam. These soils are typically fertile and well-drained, making them suitable for agriculture, including the cultivation of crops such as corn, soybeans, and wheat.

Some areas may also have sandy soils or those with a higher clay content. Additionally, it's important to note that this region can be affected by soil erosion and other issues, such as loss of organic matter and changes in pH levels. Our experience has been, lots available for new home construction contain soils that are heavy clay. Unless we get good topsoil coverage they are not fertile.

Yes, a higher clay content in soil can slow percolation, or the movement of water through the soil. Clay particles are much smaller than those of sand or silt, and they pack together tightly, creating a dense soil structure. This dense structure can make it more difficult for water to move through the soil, resulting in slower percolation rates. Additionally, clay soils tend to have lower porosity, which is the amount of space in the soil that is filled with air and water. Lower porosity means that there is less space for water to move through the soil, leading to slower percolation.

On the other hand, sandy soils have larger particles and more space between them, making them more porous and allowing for better water movement and faster percolation. It's important to note that percolation rate can also be affected by other factors such as soil compaction, vegetation, and the presence of hardpan layers.

Grading consists of sculpting an area of land for the needs of a specific project. The goal of grading is to: Ensure proper drainage away from the structure, while attempting to provide the desired aesthetics of the property. Grades must comply with zoning and other regulatory restrictions and requirements. Essentially, “Grade” is the slope of the soil away from the structure. The primary focus is to ensure water does not threaten the integrity of the foundation or enter the home. There may be low or high spots (dips and swales) but these are necessary depending on various factors.

There is unfortunately no universally correct answer for this. When downspout lines are buried all efforts are made to place the exit in an inconspicuous and convenient location. Depending on the contour of the lot and potential irrigation the location is not always the same. The corrugated pipe that is used typically comes in lengths of 10’. You should be able to locate the grated top of the exit within that radius of the downspout. The gated top will become overgrown if not maintained. Grass will have to be pulled back and the exit kept clear of debris to maintain successful drainage.

To grow grass, you should follow these basic steps:

Prepare the soil: Test the soil pH and adjust it to between 6.0 and 7.0 if necessary. Remove any weeds, rocks, or debris from the area and till the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches.

Choose the right grass seed: Consider the growing conditions (e.g. sunlight, soil type, climate, foot traffic) and choose the right type of grass seed for your area.

Sow the seed: Broadcast the seed evenly over the soil surface, following the seed packet's recommended rate. Rake the seed into the soil and then water thoroughly.

Water and fertilize: Water the seeded area regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. After the grass has sprouted, begin to fertilize with a balanced fertilizer according to the instructions.

Mow and maintain: When the grass reaches a height of 3-4 inches, mow it to a height of 2-2.5 inches. Maintain a regular mowing schedule, remove grass clippings, and water as needed to keep the grass healthy.

Fertilizing: It is usually recommended to fertilize warm-season grasses (e.g. Bermuda, St. Augustine) twice per year, in the spring and fall. Cool-season grasses (e.g. Kentucky bluegrass, fescue) can be fertilized in the spring and fall or in the fall and early winter. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the type and amount of fertilizer to use.

Pre-emergent: Pre-emergent is a herbicide that prevents weed seeds from germinating. It is typically applied in the early spring and early fall, before the weed seeds have a chance to sprout.

The timing will depend on the specific weeds you want to control and the climate in your area. It is important to note that over-fertilizing or applying pre-emergent at the wrong time can harm your grass. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and to seek advice from a professional if you are unsure about the best timing for your specific needs. By following these steps, you can help ensure that your grass grows thick, lush, and green.

The bathroom is a location of high humidity. As that humidity is exhausted via the fan and ductwork condensation may form. This becomes more prevalent during the colder months. It is very effective to allow the fan to run for 10-15 minutes after showering. This gives the fan sufficient time to exhaust the humid air and equalize the temperature to prevent the development of condensation.

Turtle vents, also known as turtle back vents, are vents that are installed on the roof of a building to provide ventilation for the attic or crawl space. They are designed with a sloping top and a raised edge, which helps to prevent rain and snow from entering the vent. However, depending on the amount of snow or rain fall and the direction of the wind, it is possible for snow or rain to get inside through the turtle vents. During heavy snowfall or strong winds, the snow can accumulate on the sloping top of the turtle vent and then be pushed inside the vent by the wind.

If this happens, the snow can melt and cause water damage inside the attic or crawl space. To prevent this, Drippe has a professional install a snow guard or a screen over the turtle vents to prevent snow from entering. It's also worth noting that if the vents are clogged with debris such as leaves, it can also cause snow to get inside, as the ventilation system won't be able to function properly. In this case, it's important to keep the vents clean and clear of debris to ensure proper ventilation and to prevent snow from getting inside.

Vertical cracks in cedar posts are called "checks." These are caused by the natural drying process of the wood, and are not considered structural problems. The width of a check in a cedar post is not a sole indicator of whether it is a concern or not. The size of the check, combined with the location, the number of checks and the overall condition of the post are important factors to consider when determining if a check is something to be concerned about.

If a check is less than 1/4 inch wide and does not go all the way through the post it is usually not a concern. If the check is accompanied with rotting or other signs of wood decay it could be a cause for concern. Staining the cedar may help the material maintain natural oils and limit development of checks. However, staining cedar will alter the color of the material. Stain also needs to be periodically reapplied. The color selection, and annual maintenance would entirely be each homeowner's choice. Leaving the cedar natural has its own appeal. No maintenance, and consistent coloring are the primary ones. The trade off is the higher risk of checks developing.

Pinholes in grout can be a common issue after tile installation. These tiny holes can be unsightly, can collect dirt and grime, and can make it difficult to clean your tiled surface effectively. Here are a few steps you can take to address pinholes in your grout:

1. Clean the area: Before attempting any repairs, clean the tiled surface thoroughly to remove any dirt, dust, or debris that may be filling the pinholes. Use a grout cleaner and a scrub brush to clean the grout lines, and rinse the area with water.
2. Prepare the grout: Mix a small amount of grout according to the manufacturer's instructions, or use pre-mixed grout. Make sure the consistency is not too thin, as you want it to be able to fill the pinholes effectively.
3. Apply the grout: Using a grout float, spread the grout over the pinholes, making sure to press it down firmly to ensure it fills the holes completely.
4. Wipe away excess grout: After the grout has had a chance to dry slightly, wipe away any excess grout using a clean, damp sponge. Be sure not to wipe away too much grout or disturb the filled pinholes.

Nail pops are a common problem in drywall installation. They occur when the head of a nail or screw that has been used to attach the drywall to the underlying framing "pops" or protrudes out from the surface of the drywall.

There are several reasons why nail pops can occur, including shifting or settling of the underlying framing, expansion or contraction of the drywall due to changes in temperature or

humidity, or simply from the natural movement of the building over time.

Nail pops can be unsightly and can also compromise the structural integrity of the drywall if left unaddressed. They can be repaired by either removing the nail or screw, replacing it with a new one, and patching the hole, or by sinking the nail or screw deeper into the drywall and patching over the resulting hole.

Luxury vinyl flooring is a breeze to care for. To keep your floor clean & beautiful, take the following steps:

• Sweep or vacuum as often as is needed to remove loose dirt.
• Wash the floor with a non-abrasive, “no-rinse” floor cleaner
• When damp mopping, use warm water & don’t flood the floor
• Do not use soap-based detergents, abrasive, “mop-and-shine” products, wax, or bleaches (except to sanitize septic backup).

Never push, pull or drag heavy furniture or furnishings across the floor. Always lift & carry the items if possible or use furniture sliders. Note that latex or rubber mats may cause yellowing or discolorations. Do not use any resurfacing coating such as polyurethane or acrylics, as these may void the warranty or cause peaking.

Shrinkage: All wood was a living organism at one point and was composed of lots of water. After being cut and used in the construction of homes it continues to dry. Especially through the winter months as the furnace will reduce the relative humidity in the home. That “drying out” process will cause the wood to shrink. As the dimensional floor joists and the trim wood both experience shrinkage they will on occasion pull away from each other. The good news is as the relative humidity returns to normal the wood may swell back up causing those gaps to shrink.

An expansion gap is essential when it comes to laminate flooring installation. The recommended expansion gap is a minimum of ¼ inch. Expert installers say that the larger the space, the larger the expansion gap should be, as the floor needs more space to expand and contract with temperature. Since laminate flooring is a floating floor, it is not attached to the sub-floor and sits on top of the underlayment. Every effort is made to hide the expansion gap under the trim material however, from time to time during thermal expansion and contraction sections of flooring may separate at the end joints. This can be fixed simply by striking the plank with the ball of your foot (while wearing soft rubber soled shoes) in the direction you want the plank to move.

Concrete flatwork is the process of pouring concrete to create a flat surface. Flat concrete is often seen outdoors. Concrete floors in garages and basements are flatwork so are concrete patios, sidewalks, driveways, dumpster pads, and garden paths. Flatwork can be used in many ways to create aesthetics and functionality.

The process starts with wooden framing and the formation of a subbase. The frame gives the poured concrete its shape and ensures straight edges, an even pour, and faster drying. A subbase of either rock aggregate or rebar underlays the poured surface to strengthen the concrete and impede the development of cracks. After the concrete is mixed and poured, the top is leveled off. When dry, contractors remove the frame. A waterproofing seal may be added to protect the surface from stains and water damage.

Concrete shrinks and compresses as it sets, but contractors take precautions to control cracking that may result from these stresses by reinforcing it with stabilizing rebar. Expansion joints at regular intervals between slabs relieve the stress caused by thermal expansion and contraction as temperatures heat up and cool down. Unfortunately as the colloquialism goes: “There are only two types of concrete; cracked concrete and concrete that hasn’t cracked yet.”

A foundation is the lowest load bearing section of your home. It serves three primary functions.

First, the foundation bears the weight of the entire structure. It transfers the force through to the ground beneath. For this reason, foundations are made of concrete and dug into the earth for added stability.

Second, your foundation holds your house in place. It acts as an anchor between the frame and the ground below. In the event of natural disasters such as floods, tornados, and frost-heaves your foundation stops your home from being washed or blown away.

Finally, a well-laid foundation can help waterproof your property and prevent groundwater from rising into the lower reaches of your home.

Although every effort is made to prevent this from happening cracks may develop in a foundation wall. This is a problem because it could become a point of water infiltration. There are several types of cracks that may develop. Superficial cracks are not a point of concern. However, determining if a crack is superficial or structural may require an inspection to determine. If it is determined that a crack is structural in nature there are various products that are ASTM certified for repair. 

Drippé Homes uses the REZI WELD LV system. Application and Safety Data Sheet information can be found HERE.